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Le Savon de Marseille (the Marseille’s soap) October 05 2018, 0 Comments

he origins of soap go back to the Egyptians. They described soap recipes on their famous papyrus. In Europe, the Gauls were apparently the first to intentionally manufacture soap from goat's tallow and potash from beech ash. 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Transhumance September 03 2018, 0 Comments

This month Calisson by Gilles brings you the still living tradition of Transhumance in Provence. 

A living tradition

Transhumance, -trans- “through” (on the other side) and –humance- humus (land, country), is the semi-annual migration of grazing animals from the plain to the mountains and the mountains to the plain. It helps the shepherds overcome the drought of the summer and hard conditions of mountains’ winter.

In June, the herds steer to the nearest mountains, where the grass is green and so abundant in our pastures. They will be back from the mountains between September and November, before the snow reappears. 

The Transhumance is an ancestral know-how, and is perpetuated from generation to generation.

There are different forms of transhumance:

The "great summer transhumance" connects the low plains of the Mediterranean coast with Alpine mountains. 

The "local" transhumance refers to the rise of herds living around mountain villages area to a higher level for summer pastures.

The "winter" transhumance is practiced by some mountain herds, who spend the winter in the plains of Basse Provence.

The most famous transhumance is the one between Provence and the Alps. It is not regulated by any written law except one, which limit the width of their passage to 5 fathoms (10 meters) The mountains of Barcelonnette are the best, they are covered with beautiful grass. The sheep belong to shepherds living around Arles and Salon de Provence.

In autumn, sheep come back from the mountains fattened. The shepherds of la Crau rent the right of grazing in the mountains for six months. 


Sisteron, the sheep capital

In the heart of Provençal country, the city of Sisteron is at the center of traditional sheep farming. For centuries, Sisteron collects, sorts and delivers the best lambs for its customers every day. The lamb of Sisteron is prized for its fine and unctuous meat, it is generally cooked with herbs of Provence.Les Drailles

The “drailles” is a Provençal word, there were stony paths that were entirely reserved for transhumant herds, some of which went from Arles to Italy. Draille or Carraire (closer to Marseille) designate the transhumance path. 

Often corresponding to the most natural way for herds to join the summer pastures, the Drailles and carraires were the first lines of communication between the plains of low Provence and the alpine mountains. Some of them use the path of ancient Roman roads. In order to facilitate the progress of the livestock, these transhumance paths reached up to one hundred meters in width. They weren’t considering the unevenness of the landscape and were drawn as much as possible in a straight line. 

The routes preferably took the ridges line of the hill and mid-mountain regions in order to avoid the valleys and cultivated plains.

The drailles were delimited by stones planted in pairs, on either side, every four or five hundred meters. These roads were public roads and were maintained with royalties paid by the owners of the Arlesian (Arles region) flocks.

Over the centuries, these pastoral routes were difficult to maintain against the increasing population and new transport solutions of the industry era. 

The roads were only used two months each year, a month in the fall and a month in the spring. The locals did not hesitate, meanwhile, to use them. The rise of struggles and clashes in the 19th century led the shepherds to avoid these traditional roads and borrow the more modern ones of the valley.

 

The Transhumance is an event

In recent years, transhumance has made a comeback under the spotlights and is becoming a moment of celebration and cheerfulness, which allows to inhabitants of Provence to rediscover their terroir and the old professions of pastoralism. 

The ancestral practices of herd management, which had disappeared, replaced by truck transport are now revived. Because of the pollution of diesel engine, rugged terrain which are hard to reach, the tradition is back and it is beautiful to see the mountains of Haute-Provence with a shepherd and his flock of sheep!

 

Where and when to attend a transhumance

Where ? 

You can attend to transhumances in the Alps, at the north side of Provence. 

When ?

Two times a year


During the spring : for the climb to the high mountains where animals will graze for the summer. Or during the fall : for the descent to the lowlands for the winter season. 

Depending on the location and events, you can watch the passage of animals in the village or follow the herds from one village to another for a hike. In the latter case, it is often necessary to register by contacting the organizer, or the town hall of the village.

A transhumance hike represents on average a journey between 5 to 20 km (2 to 13 miles) , and there are different hiking formats.

One day: you can for example take your picnic, for this option, be sure to bring in your bag a box of our sweet Calisson by Gilles. All the natural ingredients in our Calisson cantaloupe, almond … will marry perfectly with the discovery of Provençal traditions and will bring you the energy to fully enjoy this moment.

Several days: nights and meals are often proposed by the event planners and registration is charged. 

Parties are usually associated with the transhumance tradition and villages are the place where beautiful and picturesque parades take place. You can see animals in the villages, kids games, markets and many other activities.

Celebration of the transhumance of Riez-la-Romaine (Alpes de Hautes-Provence): 

Watch the passage of animals in the center of the village, enjoy the folk entertainment and stroll through the local markets. Your children will love watching the sheep. This celebration usually takes place the 3rd or 4th Sunday of June. 

Celebration hike in the Mercantour - Roya Valley (Alpes Maritimes) :

Go on a 2 days trek alongside sheep and goats. You will be responsible for monitoring the flock with your kids ! From 5 to 8 hours of walking per day at the end of June. 

Celebration of transhumance in Saint Rémy de Provence (Bouches-du-Rhône) :

Young and old will be truly impressed by the parade of thousands of sheep in the streets of Saint Remy de Provence. This day will also allow you to attend demonstrations of the work of shepherds and shepherd dogs. You will be able to enjoy the stunning flea market of Saint Remy. The event takes place the last week of June. 

You won’t be able to assist to all of them, so you have to choose one according to your time, your family size and your preferences! 

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Wines of Provence August 10 2018, 0 Comments

This month Calisson by Gilles takes you to the vineyards of Provence.  This region is definitely filled with wonders! 

 

The Provence is blessed with a rich history and beautiful landscapes. It also has a wonderful climate with a wide variety of fertile lands. Provence inhabitants understood it and started to produce wine very early. The production of wine in Provence is millennial and it stretches now from the West of Marseille to the East of Nice. The variety of landscapes makes each terroir unique.  Location, ground composition, exposition to the Mistral wind and many others parameters impact directly the final product. 

 

In Provence there are a dozen of AOC (Appellation Origine Contrôlée). It is an official label of the French Government which certifies and guarantees the quality of the wine produced in a clearly defined area. Inspectors are constantly checking the production and respect of the rules. They are driving all year throughout Provence visiting and inspecting each part of the production process. Hence there are many areas detaining their AOC Label in Provence. Calisson by Gilles gives you an overview of the main ones in this article.

The grapes which are used in the wine-making process are registered in the statement of work of the AOC label, and the AOC of Provence produces excellent results. There are about twenty grape varieties that are used in Provence which produce many distinctive wines. 

Here is an overview of the main grapes which are used within the area of Provence. 

Red grapes:

  • Syrah: It produces red wines with a hints of spices, and develop aromas of red berries and vanilla
  • Grenache: This grape produces red wines which are light and very fruity.
  •  
  • Cabenet Sauvignon: Predominant within the Bordeaux area, the Cabernet Sauvignon is not used much in Provence. The grape is used to help red wines age well. In France, we use the term “vin de garde” for a wine that can be kept many years. 
  • Mourvedre: This grape produces deep purple wines, and can be added to bring structure and smoothness to the wine.
  • Cinsault: It is a local red grape which has a berry flavor that is also used in blends to make Rosé wines.

White grapes:

  • Clairette: This is an old variety of Provence, this grape produces fragrant & fruity white wines, its equivalent on Red Grape family would be the Grenache.
  • Semillon : The grape of Semillon is similar to the Mourvedre grape on the red side, wine makers use a small amount of Semillon grape to add smoothness & richness to blends.
  • Rolle: This white grape produces full-bodies wines and is always used in the composition of white wines. This grape is very useful to obtain very well balanced white wines.
  • Ugni Blanc: As this name indicates, its origin is from Italy, so we can guess it has been used for a very long time in Provence. This white grape is dedicated to make dry and acidic wines.

In France, the wine-makers always blend their grapes, mostly from the grapes that are growing in their vineyard. The proportion of each kinds of grapes used in the composition of each wine is a well kept secret.

The aim of each vigneron (wine maker) is to produce wines with a constant taste from years to years. It is a big challenge! To make the taste of their wines so the customer can identify the products and moreover, keep buying it.

There is a technique which has been borrowed from the Champagne industry which consist to assemble wines from different years to smooth its taste through years and ensure a constant quality. 

The notion of vintage is the opposite. If a bottle shows a 2015 Millésime, that means that the grapes used in the wine making process are exclusively coming from that year. 

The inconvenient is that the taste of each wine can differ totally from one year to another. Parameters are numerous and totally unpredictable like weather, rain level, wind, etc …

Typically, the red wines of Provence are young, fresh and fruity. We are in South of France where the summer is hot and dry and where we often have barbecues during the week end. So this kind of red wines are ideal. The red wines of Provence are not confectioned to be kept for many years but some of them can. These ones are especially suited for the numerous French cheeses you can buy within the markets of Provence (see our previous edition of January 2018). https://www.bygilles.com/blogs/posts/the-markets-of-provence

 

The Rosé wines of Provence have a slight pink color with fresh aromas which breath summer time. Perfect for an evening with friends or family by the swimming pool coupled with our sweet delicacy, Calisson by Gilles. 

If you are looking for a light Provençal white wine we would suggest to pick one of the vineyards near the coast.  You will get a good quality wine with a fresh & aromatic taste. On the opposite if you are looking for  a more robust wine you should choose one which come from the inlands.

Let us give you a short list of the main appellations for AOC, their localization and the main characteristics of their wine. This will help define your wine escape in Provence. 

 

Discover the main appellations of Provence

Coteaux d'Aix en Provence

This appellation covers a wide area of more than 7,000 acres divided into 49 vineyards. The appellation stretches from from Aix en Provence to the beginning of the Alpilles and also includes vineyards around Etang de Berre (The city of Martigues is at the entrance of the Etang de Berre, see our last month blog). The proportion of volume produced is roughly 48% red and 48% rosés and 4% white wines. The latter are young since the vineyards are about 20 years old. The main production remains the red wine which are known to be strong. 

Côtes de Provence

This famous appellation covers an very large area of 45,000 acres including inlands parcels of the Var department up to the Mediterranean coast of Hyères, Fréjus. Considering the size of the area we can find a lot of differences in soil and climate,  the wines of the AOC have a large variety of taste. The rosés represent 75 % of the harvest, the reds make up 20 % and the whites only 5 %, although this does not mean they are of lesser quality.

Coteaux des Baux

This appellation was created in 1995 and covers a small area of 800 acres in the middle of the Alpilles moutains. Although the volume is limited, you can find a wide variety of wines. Nevertheless the reds represent 70% of the harvest.  Strongly flavored and well-structured, they deserve to be aged for 5 or 6 years. 

Cassis wines

The "Vins de Cassis" appellation dates from 1936 and it is the oldest AOC in the region.

Limited to only 500 acres , 12 vineyards produce this excellent wine. The wine of Cassis is known for being dry with a delicate fruity taste. Here the volume of white wines reaches 80% of the production. This is a great value wine that marries perfectly with local fish based meal such as Bouillabaisse. 

Côtes du Luberon

The Côtes du Luberon appellation covers 8,000 acres and is located between Cavaillon and Apt, with 36 districts sharing the vineyards. 70% of production is red, the Côtes du Luberon wines are appreciated for its delicate and complex bouquet. It is generally better to drink the Côtes du Luberon wines when they are young. The reds are well balanced, the rosés are fresh and nervous. 

Côtes du Ventoux wines

Situated south-west of the Ventoux Mountain, in the region of Carpentras, these vineyards are shared between 51 districts. Volume repartition is 80% red wine, 15 % rosé and only 5 % white, the Côtes du Ventoux wine is light and fruity. Like the Côtes du Luberon it is better to consume these when they are still young.

Côtes du Rhône wines

Situated in the southern Vaucluse between Avignon and Bollène, the "Côtes du Rhône" AOC includes amongst famous vineyards with an international reputation such as Châteauneuf du Pape, Gigondas or Vacqueyras.

Concentrated mainly on reds, they can either be aged or consumed while relatively young. This is a safe value for people who are Red lovers. 

Vins de Palette

This appellation is the smallest one of Provence given that it is only 30 acres wide and located in the districts of Le Tholonet and Meyreuil (few miles from Aix en Provence). 

Formerly created by the Carmelites in medieval times, the vineyard is today exploited by only two properties. The red wine is warm, the rosé is said nervous and the white one is, according to enlightened locals, one of the best of Provence. Notice to wine lovers…

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Martigues in Provence July 04 2018, 0 Comments

This month we are discovering the village of Martigues in Provence, often called the Venice of Provence. You can easily reach Martigues from Marseille, (15 Miles) which is near Marseille’s airport (15 min driving). The town is located at the entrance of Etang de Berre. The downtown is divided in three areas : Ferrières , île Brescon (Island Brescon), and Jonquières. Canals are running through the island. 

Martigues is a very pleasant town, water is everywhere around you as you walk the city, as you eat a plater of seafood just pluked out of the sea. The many  canals coupled with colourful façades make this town stunning and unique in Provence! 

This seaport is a must stop and deserves its nickname of the Venice of Provence. So, let Calisson by Gilles brings you to Martigues.

 

A bucolic way to reach Martigues is to take the train of La Côte Bleue. 

From Marseille, this little train which follows the Côte Bleue is certainly the most memorable way to reach Martigues. The sceneries from the train are stunning and you will fully enjoy it. The train makes stops on picturesque little ports such as l’Estaque, Calanque of Niolon, Sausset les Pins, Carry le Rouet. 

 

 

 

Cultural heritage

Martigues is a quiet town with a strong heritage. You will be surprised to see such jewels. Calisson by Gilles will detail the must see attractions, the artistic legacy that can be felt all over the city. The water mingling with houses and tiny pedestrian streets gives Martigues such a feeling of peace. It is so appreciable when you are in South of France. 

Annonciade Chapel 

Calisson by Gilles strongly recommends the visit of the Annonciade Chapel. The building is listed as a Historic Monument. The architecture is Baroque and the paintings within the Chapel are sumptuous with stunning optical illusion.

Fort de Bouc 

Fort de Bouc was built in the Middle Ages to control the sea traffic between the gulf of Fos and the Berre lagoon. Its imposing fortification is still standing and you can visit it. 

For more information about visit hours, check the website of the tourism office of Martigues. The guided tours are opened only  during summer time and only accessible by boat. 

Ziem Museum

The Félix Ziem museum enjoys a nice reputation in Martigues and is worth the visit. Félix Ziem was a French painter of the 19th century who gave a major contribution to the city of Martigues through his works. 

You can gaze his representations of Venice (Italy), Constantinople (Turkey) and other Provençal landscapes. You will discover a traditional Mediterranean sailing boat named “Tartanes” in Provencal dialect. 

 

Retrace the footsteps of Caesar

A free history path gives you the opportunity to discover the ancient sites of Martigues. It starts from the old town and reaches the Côte Bleue while highlighting archeological sites. 

Among them: the site of Tholon where the vestiges of a Gallo-Roman agglomeration remains; the chapel St Julien les Martigues and the quarries of Baou where the colourful pink stone was used to build numerous monuments of Marseille. 

 

How to have a good time in Martigues?

Calisson by Gilles gives you some tips.

The park of Figuerolles 

The Park of Figuerolles is the lung of the city of Martigues and is ideal for family fun. 

Many activities are possible: joging, pony rides for the kids, mountain bike, little train ride or a stroll via ferrata. The park has also a teaching farm and a botanical trail to discover Mediterranean natural plants. 

 

 

The beaches of Martigues 

The town of Martigues has beautiful beaches which figures among the best of the Côte Bleue: the beach of Verdon, Carro, Sainte Croix and many others. Most of them are awarded each year for the quality of the water. These beaches are very popular during the summer so we advise to wake up early and go there in the morning or late afternoon. 

  

Have a stroll in Martigues

The best way to enjoy Martigues is to walk and most particularly on its island. Take your time strolling between the picturesque tiny streets with colorful façades. The island of Martigues is quiet, peaceful and bucolic.

You can also walk along the little sea port where fisher boats are moored, giving to the place the real purpose of the island. Continue your walk by going down to the end of the island. It offers a splendid panorama on the sea which is dominated by the viaduct highway, a kind of Golden Gate Bridge made in Provence. 

 

After a stroll along the canal, you can book a table in one of the numerous restaurants. The restaurant called Bouchon à la Mer has earned its place within the famous Michelin Guide. The plates are generous with fresh and seasonal  products. Wherever you are eating the decor is very pleasant with a stunning view of the Canal of Martigues; an unforgettable experience! 

The perfect after dinner walk is to reach le Mirroir aux Oiseaux (Bird’s Mirror), a lovely little spot whose reflective waters inspired many great masters. You will be instantly charmed and it is the best moment to enjoy our delicious Calisson by Gilles. 

The atmosphere of this moment coupled with the Provençal way of life is clearly reflected in our delicacy. After that you will be able to pick up some pictures and selfies of the fishermen's cottages reflecting in the canal.

What a great souvenir!

  

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Cannes, city of lights! April 30 2018, 0 Comments

 

Cannes Film Festival

The Festival of Cannes is the world's largest event of the 7th Art ! Everybody knows the Cannes film festival, taking place in May during 7 days. This is the most famous festival throughout the world. Tabloids, social medias and TV spots are dedicated to it that week. With abundance of A-list attendees, the world’s biggest stars will be there in Cannes. 

We all have memories of our favourite actress (or actor) showing up her best picture profile on the red carpet. This moment is an unique occasion for Haute Couture fashion house to show their beautiful creation to the world. This tradition lasts now for more than 70 years.  

The 1st annual Cannes Film Festival was held in 1946. At that time 21 countries participated to the Festival of Cannes which took place at the former Casino. It was mare with projection issues such as a Hitchcock movie shown in reverse or the The Three Musketeers movies projected upside down. It was a  challenging beginning, but the Festival gained a solid and worldwide reputation over the last 70 years. The Cannes Festival was called until 2002 the International Film Festival. 

 

So much could be written about the Cannes Festival!

The Cannes Festival is today the most followed cultural event in the world; only surpassed by the World Football Cup and the Olympic Games. It is the occasion for tabloids to spot numerous Stars and make bankable headlines.  

Discover Cannes all year

The To Do things in the city of Cannes during the festival are totally different to any another period of the year. Calisson by Gilles will make some suggestions. 

What to do in Cannes all year? There are some nice places to visit in Cannes. Whether you want seaside, tiny streets, you will get the spot you are looking for. Cannes is an amazing city with hundreds of things to do, from nightclubbing to authentic architecture or gastronomy.

Obviously, a walk in La Croisette is the first thing you will think, and we advise it. It’s the most famous walk in town. Some parts are crowded, while others are quiet and relaxing. We suggest to stroll the whole length of La Croisette. Take your time, feel the French atmosphere. Have a coffee break, chill and take your time. Sunrises and sunsets are memorable moments. 

 

A perfect day in Cannes

Wake up early to enjoy the atmosphere of a sea town the whole morning long. Stop at a Café and enjoy your breakfast before heading to the main market called Marché Forville. There you will be able to taste a lot of delicious and local treats. Steer yourself to the Old Port (harbor) where fishermen are bringing the catch of the night. Fresh fishes will be sold in all restaurants of the city. Do not forget to bring your sunglasses! 

In the afternoon, you can book a ferry trip to visit the Islands of Lérins. There are 4 islands but the main one is Saint Honorat Island where there is an old abbey. Monks have taken vows of silence however they are still producing wine! 

Have a walk around the coast and enjoy a full panorama of Cannes before going back.  

In the evening, if you want to feel the chicness of the city, book a table at the restaurant of Hotel Martinez on La Croisette and let yourself be inspired until the end of night. 

 

What to do in Cannes during its Festival? 

Calisson by Gilles gives you some tips to enjoy Cannes under the spotlights of its festival as numerous movies stars and show business representatives are here. 

The In-places not to miss: 

Le Gotha

The Gotha Club is a must-see nightclub which enjoys a privileged seafront location in the heart of the Palm Beach Casino of Cannes. Every night during the festival, more than 3000 people are partying and famous international DJs set the dance floor on fire. 

Club Coste

Located at the rooftop of the Marriott Hotel, the Club Coste is a trendy place for sharing a drink after movies projections. A-list and VIP people can usually be encountered there. That’s the reason why the Club Coste requests invitation cards during exclusive evenings to avoid overcrowding and thus keep a refined atmosphere. 

La Villa Schweppes

Each year in May, the Schweppes Villa takes place in a different location. It can be anywhere, previous editions showed the short-lived club installed on a private beach  or on a boat. This year, the Villa Schweppes will settle on a wonderful villa in the hills of Cannes and The Club K will hold a musical line-up with in-vogue artists of the French Riviera. 

Le restaurant Tetou

Hollywood famous movie stars have a fondness for this restaurant, located farther at the Golf of Juan Les Pins. Away from the excitement of the Croisette Boulevard in Cannes, you will be able to taste a succulent Bouillabaisse (see our previous article of May 2017 if you are looking for more on this traditional meal of Provence).

Nikki Beach

The worldwide Nikki Beach brand is found in all the famous and hype places throughout the world. In Cannes the club is installed on the beach of the Carlton Hotel (where many VIPs are staying during the festival).

 

 Jazz Festival in Antibes / Juan-les-Pins

Jazz and French Riviera have a love affair lasting for more than 70 years. At the end of the World War II, famous American such as Ray Charles, Sidney Bechet or Miles Davis performed in Juan Les Pins and help the French people discover a new kind of music, totally different from what they were used to, and they fell in love with it !

Juan les Pins is a seaport town located between Antibes and Cannes. 

 

You can always feel a jazzy atmosphere there. In fact , the first Jazz Festivals were not in the U.S.A. but it is indeed here on the French Riviera that they were born! 

The cornerstone of this tradition can be attributed to the famous Sidney Bechet. In the early 50’s Duke Ellington and Sidney Bechet came in Paris to play and had another concert in Juan les Pins. Sidney Bechett fell in love with the French Riviera. We can consider him to be the man who introduced the passion of Jazz to the Riviera and the French people. 

His legacy is real and continues to this day. 

How to fully enjoy a jazz festival? With a Calisson by Gilles during the concert. The sweetness of the Calisson married with the softness of the song. A pure delight!

The Jazz Festival of Juan Les Pins was officially established in 1960 and has hosted prestigious guests, such as Ray Charles, Louis Armstrong and many more… Since then all great jazz artists come to the French Riviera and Juan Les Pins during summer times. Summer here is a subtle mix of sunshine, dolce vita and music. 

The Jazz Festival of Juan Les Pins is the most famous but there are many Jazz Festivals on the French Riviera. For instance the Jazz Festival of Nice, few kilometers away from Juan Les Pins, is also a main event each summer. The latter provides wonderful entertainment for locals and tourists and the line-up includes big names such as the talented Herbie Hancock. 

If you are spending a holiday on the French Riviera with family and friends, Calisson by Gilles will strongly advises you to discover the Jazz Festivals of Nice. Because of its size, you will likely find entertainment suitable for everybody. Hotels and restaurants are numerous and relatively cheaper in Nice. 

However, if you are seeking a romantic moment with your beloved, the Jazz Festival of Juan Les Pins is definitely the one you should attend. For a night stay, Calisson by Gilles would suggest you book at Hotel Juana, wonderful frame reminding the Juan Les Pins of the 30’s and there is a ball all Thursday night ! 

 

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Saint Maximin la Sainte Baume April 06 2018, 0 Comments

 

This month Calisson by Gilles takes you for an historic and stunning journey. We are going to talk about the charming village of Saint Maximin la Sainte Baume and its surrondings. The city of Saint Maximin is located in the Var department about 60 miles east of Marseille. The economy of the city is growing as more and more startups, young entrepreneurs settle down there. By the way, the city has kept his agricultural tradition and this latter is always part of the economy. 

The Sainte Baume forest is one of the two sacred forests of France. (The other one is in Brittany). 

 

Saint Maximin has a strong Christian heritage. After the Crucifixion, Mary Magdalene is said to have travelled to Saintes Maries de la Mer (see our October 2017 blog). She left her travelling companions in a village, that will be called Saint Maximin later, and withdrew to a cave in a mountain called the “Massif de la Sainte Baume” where she later died.

In the 13th century her tomb was discovered and a basilica with a covent were built on the site. The town of Saint Maximin has become an important pilgrimage destination. 

 

Today, Saint Maximin is a dynamic city. Downtown has a lot of stores where you can find almost everything: food, clothing, technology etc.. 

Place Malherbe is the perfect spot to take a break at the numerous cafés or restaurants and for sure feel and taste the Provence with our sweet delicacies, Calisson By Gilles. Wherever you are, it will bring you a taste of Provence. 

The oldest neighborhood of Saint Maximin is its medieval Jewish quarter. Its oldest houses are 800 years old ! In the 14th century many Jews settled here and built arcades overhanging the street. The demolition of these structures was ordered throughout Provence but King Robert save those from Saint Maximin and now these houses are unique in Provence. 

 

The main monument of the town of Saint Maximin is the Sainte Marie Madeleine Basilica which is the biggest gothic edifice of Provence. The crypt is fourteen hundreds years old and you will be able to visit the sarcophagus of Sainte Marie. 

Next to the Basilica is the Royal convent which construction started at the same time but finally ended almost 200 years later, in the 15th century. The Royal convent is today a luxury hotel. Its masterpiece is its sumptuous vaulted gothic ceiling. In contrast, the resort which was used in the 17th century to welcome the wealthy pilgrims has now become the Town Hall. The common saying “rien ne se perd, tout se transforme” (nothing is lost everything is transformed) is true in Saint Maximin ! 

 

What to do 

Whatever your religious orientation, you can do the pilgrimage to the Massif de la Sainte Baume to visit the cave of Marie Madeleine. As we said at the beginning, the Sainte Baume was a sacred mountain for the inhabitants of Marseille since the Christian era.
Many hiking trails are available. The landscapes are stunning, cliffs are vertiginous. The vegetation is very green and dense compared to the flora you usually find in south of France. The paths and indications are very easy to read, and it will be very pleasant to choose and follow a track. Calisson by Gilles suggest a track up to the chapel of Saint Pilon, 994 meters high (3250 feet). The view is magnificent ; you can see the Saint Victoire mountain to the North, the Aurelien mountain to the East and the city of Marseille to the south. Wonderful and memorable. Definitely worth it. 

 

Col de l’Espigoulier

For cyclist, bikers or car driver enthusiasts, the “col de l’Espigoulier” is a succession of winding turns located at the West of the Sainte Baume mountain. The climb starts from Cuge les Pins and ends at Plan d’Aups, 20 kilometers (15 miles) later and 700 meters higher (2100 feet). The road is historic, often taken by the runners of the Tour de France and home of numerous motor races. The view is stunning, the frame is unique but you have to be very cautious ; the road  is surrounded by cliffs and a fatal accident can occur on any portion of it. 

Whatever you are cyclist, biker or car driver enthusiast, you will find an official race for you. They take place throughout the year and will enable you to live your passion on this mythic road. The races generally take place on weekends. 

Motorized hillclimbing races are organized twice a year. The road is one way only and the downhill is closed. For non participants it is an occasion to have a stroll at the departure line to see beautiful sports and race cars. It is also an opportunity to have a view on handmade crafted prototypes and meet passionate mechanics ! 

 

The Source of Huveaune

The source of Huveaune is the place where the Huveaune river takes its source. Wonderful ! It is a protected natural site with petrified bowls and turquoise water. Important notice: the site is very sensible and fragile and authorities are patrolling to ensure tourists don’t deteriorate this unique natural landscape. The bowls are dry between May and October.

The Huveaune river takes its source in the cave of Castelette at Nans les Pins, 590 meters (1500 feet) high at the North side of the Sainte Baume. 

You will discover a sumptuous pattern of colors that can turn pale inhabitants of lagoons throughout the world. Hues go from green emerald to a luscious turquoise further in the river. Bows filled of water are terraced. Water riche with limestone and bacteria speed up a chemical reaction that has led to these natural creation. Amazing !

How to get there 

The village of Nans les Pins is located between Auriol and Saint Maximin la Sainte Baume. Cross the village driving towards Plan d’Aups and park your car at the parking located next to the riding school. The path to be followed is GR9. There is the Chemin de Rois (path of Kings) signal spotting the beginning of the trail. Follow the path of Kings and at the first crossroads continue your way to GR9. The path crosses a wide clearing within the forest. Now you will have to walk on downhill through the valley of la Castellette. Follow the Huveaune River at the bottom of the valley. The climb up of the valley will lead you to its wonderful source of Huveaune. 

 

 

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Hit the slopes in the South of France this winter! March 02 2018, 0 Comments

Do not hesitate anymore and let’s have a winter escape in the French Alps this winter ! Home to numerous ski resorts, from the tiniest one to world-renowned, France is a paradise for skiers and snowboarders. Provence inhabitants and French enjoys their ski holidays as much as their long summer vacations. Consider a French escape for your next ski outing by visiting some resorts in the South of France or staying in a vacation rental in the French Alps.

Calisson by Gilles will take you to the snow this month. 

 

The French Alps, a World of discovery

The French Alps are famous for their ski resorts and stunning scenery. They are split into many different areas offering a multitude of activities. The French Alps

 also offers some spectacular lakes. Mont Blanc is the highest point of France at 4,807 meters (15,771 feet), the third most visited natural site in the world and the most famous area for Alpine hiking in Europe. 

What is also great about the French Alps is that it is so well connected. The international airport from Marseille Provence is at only 2 hours driving distance from the first ski resorts. Trains and buses serve as well the many ski stations in the Alps. 

The French Alps in winter is certainly one of the places to be. The pure and clear air of the mountains, glorious scenery, snow, winter sun and activities. What more could you want? You can even get a sweet and cool tan! Apart from skiing, there are plenty of other activities to keep single or families occupied, whether you are a winter sports enthusiast or a non-skier. 

 

For most, the main purpose is obviously to ski or snowboard during their winter holiday but not only. 

Many luxury residences have their own spa and all conveniences dedicated to relaxation. You will always spend a comfortable moment.

 

 

 

Winter sport

Ski Areas in Southern Alps

The winter sports resorts of Provence offer many conveniences and a lot of advantages. For instance, a privilege for those who come in the Alpes de Haute-Provence, or Hautes Alpes is to combine sun, deep blue sky and snow.

The Provence’s skiing area represents more than 720 kilometers (447 miles) of runs for all levels.    With altitudes of over 3,000 meters (almost 10,000 feet), there is a wide variety of sites and landscapes. 

Furthermore the region of Alpes in Provence does not have any major industries, so there are no large cities. You will discover a multitude of picturesque and charming little villages where you will be able to enjoy a memorable stay.

 

Ski Resorts

Calisson by Gilles has selected for you four ski resorts of Provence.

 

Pra-loup - La Foux d’Allos

One of the French Alps' well-kept secrets’ resort and is relatively unknown to foreign skiers. The ski area of Pra-Loup and La Foux d'Allos form the “Espace Lumière” ski area, totaling approximately 180km of runs for all levels. One of the biggest resorts in the southern Alps, where locals enjoys spending their holidays. 

From beginner to admanced, there are runs for all levels. Snowboarders and freestyle skiers are well looked-after with a terrain park and several natural half-pipes.

Pra-Loup resort has everything you need for a successful ski holiday, a wide range of accomodations, numerous restaurants, clubs and bars, family entertainment such as ice skating and a cinema and everyday necessities such as mini markets and bakery.

Pra Loup's slopes are divided into two levels: the lower part, "La Molanes" (at 1,500m), offers excellent slopes for family skiing, while the upper part (at 1,600m) is more appropriate for experienced skiers and those looking for a challenge. Wide sloping runs are what distinguishes Pra-Loup.

In short:

  • Family skiing resorts
  • Freestyle parks
  • Wide sloping possibilities for experienced skiers

 

Vars

 At 1,850 meters altitude in the heart of the Hautes Alpes, the Vars ski resort has become one of the most desirable resorts in the Southern Alps. The resort is right on the edge of some of the biggest mountain chains in the French Alps and is nestled at the heart of wonderful forests of larches. The surrounding mountains (Massif des Ecrins, the Queyras and Ubaye) are stunning and the ski runs reach more than 3,000 meters. 

Spreading along the “Route des Grandes Alpes”, Vars has successfully combined authenticity and charm of a traditional mountain village with the comfort and accommodation of a large winter sports resort.

 

Serre Chevalier

Located near Briançon in the Southern Alps and near the Parc National des Ecrins and the Italian border, Serre-Chevalier is one of the largest resorts in France, if not Europe.  There is a large area for skiing and snowboarding but they also offer many other activities. Schedule your visit during one of their many events in order to witness some world-class skiing, or car race on snow contests.

You can stay right on the Serre Chevalier ski resort. The rustic cabins provide a warm and relaxing retreat after a long day of hitting the slopes.  The well-equipped kitchen and bath offer everything one could want.  Enjoy your morning coffee or some late night hot chocolate with our sweet Calisson by Gilles delicacy from Provence ; coupled with some spectacular views of the Alps under snow.

 

The Mont Ventoux Skiing resort

Located in the department of Vaucluse, 200 kilometers away from Alpine Mountains, the Mont Ventoux is an alternative for Provence inhabitants who want to ski. The size of the resort is obviously smaller than Alpine ones but Mont Ventoux ski resort offers to skiers an impressive 500 meters (1641 feet) of vertical descent. Mont Ventoux has 17 runs and 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) of cross country ski trails.

 

 

Cross-Country Skiing

Winter sports activities include skiing, cross-country skiing, off-piste skiing, snowboarding, off-piste snowboarding, snow-shoeing, husky walking, snow blading, glacier walking, ice diving, ice skating, ice biking and many others ! 

If you are looking for a beautiful cross country ski trail, Calisson by Gilles advises you to go to Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye. It offers a captivating panorama of the La Blanche mountain.  

La-Colle-Saint-Michel offers vast trails in a very Nordic atmosphere.

The best way to explore is definitely on ski. However,  if your finances allows it, you can try a sled dog ride. You will be totally in love of these beautiful huskys that will pull you through the snow-covered valleys.

For bikers who love mechanics, you can rent snowmobiles with a lot of horsepower that will take you to the top of the mountains.

Generally the trips with snowmobile are groups rides with a professional driver that will monitor and prevent risks of accidents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


Winter in Provence February 03 2018, 0 Comments

Provence in winter is very different from the tourist clichés of lavender fields and rosé wine. So let explore this less known side of Provence with Calissons by Gilles.

 

English people are known to spend their winter in Provence. Winter tourism in Provence began at the end of the 18th century. Wealthy English, notables and aristocrats experimented the “mild winter” of Provence. We must admit it was mostly to the French Riviera, “la Côte d’Azur” where the weather is warmer. 

 

The climate is more extreme in Western Provence than on the Riviera. It's hotter in summer and colder in winter. The fierce and cold wind from the north, the Mistral, roars down the Rhône Valley towards the coast. The Mistral can reach 60 mph and last for days (usually 3 or 6). Inhabitants will tell you, Mistral is powerful and cold, but the reward is a bright blue sky and shiny sunshine. Only in Provence! 

 

When the wind is down, daytime winter temperatures in Marseille can reach 12°C (53°F). For sure it will be cold for a swim but it is pleasant enough to lunch outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot. 

 

In Southern Provence snow is very rare, but it is very likely in the southern Alps and Luberon region. The village of Gordes under snow is totally wonderful and the views are stunning.

Keep in mind that, in winter, weather can change suddenly. The further east you go, the less severe is the Mistral. La Ciotat, near Marseille, enjoy a delicious and warm microclimate all year. Generally the villages and cities along the coast from La Ciotat to Monaco are very pleasant all  year. 

 

The Festivals

Provence's winter festivals celebrate seasonal products, wine, and gastronomy.

One exception: Avignon has one of the largest equestrian shows in Europe, Cheval Passion is a must for horse lovers. It takes place in mid-January.

If you're looking for a romantic and unusual destination for Valentine's Day, try Roquemaure. On that day the whole town dresses up in 19th century costumes to celebrate true love with a procession, a banquet and dancing. 

 

Don't come to Provence in search of Mardi Gras carnivals. Except for the famous one in Nice, most towns in Provence prefer to wait for the warmer weather.

In the Var, (Eastern Provence) the mimosa trail, a route mapped out by the Var Tourism Office, takes you along the coast where, from January to March, these spectacular bright yellow trees are blooming. One of the towns on this route, Mandelieu-La Napoule, has a famous mimosa festival in mid-February. 

The hill-top village of Tourrettes sur Loup has a violet flower festival also in mid-February, and the village of Menton will charm you with its lemon festival.

Wine festivals in Provence are held from  September to December. The seaside village of Bandol holds the last major wine festival of the year, the Fête du Millésime, on the first weekend of December. Expect plenty of wine tastings and street  entertainment!

  

The Winter Sports

The Provence and especially the Departments of Hautes Alpes and Alpes de Hautes Provence enjoy a wide range of winter sports resorts. The Mountain area is called Les Alpes du Sud.

They offer all types of winter activities such as skiing, snowboarding, ski bike etc… Some also have cultural activities.

Calissons by Gilles will bring you there next month. 

 

 

Calissons by Gilles tip: The Winter Sales

Good to know: Dates of sales in France are strictly regulated by the French government. They take place twice a year and les soldes d’hiver (winter sales) start the second Wednesday in January and last for exactly six weeks. For some years now, Marseille has widely developed its shopping districts around the city.

One of the biggest commercial and shopping area of Europe is located 5 km to the north of Marseille. The area is called Plan de Campagne. You will find absolutely everything there, from clothes to houses ! Hotels and entertainments are readily available. 

On weekend Calissons by Gilles advise you to go there before 10:00am and leave before 3:00pm to avoid the huge traffic jams which totally paralyze the area, and even more on sales periods. Plan de Campagne’s famous bouchons!

 

The sights and attractions

Usually Provençal villages close down between November and Easter. It will be harder to find a restaurant or place to stay. However many places remain very active at this period of the year. It is also the time to discover a more peaceful Provence. For instance, visiting Les Baux de Provence in summer can be very exhausting given that this is one of the most visited village in summer. 

The Medieval Castel remains open throughout the year and has a very busy cultural program. The village of Lourmarin is one of the “In” place to be, with plenty of bars and restaurants operating in the low season. 

The best open air attraction according to Calissons by Gilles is definitely a visit of the Calanques  from La Ciotat (see our November 2016 article’s). No worries about parking!

You can also take a tour of the Camargue. It's a good time for bird-watching. The famous pink flamingos will still be there - and their plumage is at its most vibrant in winter.

 

Gastronomy

Provence's usual street markets will continue through the winter with seasonal produce. But the gastronomic star is undoubtedly the black truffle. If you are looking for more information on the black truffle, have a look to our November’s article dealing especially with the black diamond. 

Also happening around this time of year is the olive harvest usually coupled with olive oil festivals and fairs. There you will taste a wide variety of olive oil with a wide range of flavors: acid, salty, fruity. 

The vocabulary which characterize an olive oil is extremely furnished ; we can compare this to oenology for wine !

The Provence cooking in winter is both healthy and heavy and will keep you warm inside.

You can taste a Daube which is a beef stew, with onions, olives, carrots in a red wine sauce. 

Do you like sweets? You will be in heaven in Provence : you can try the “pompes à l’huile” (olive oil brioche) slightly perfumed with orange blossom; the “Navettes” of Marseille (biscuits made in Marseille); the brioche des Rois with its jewel colors; dark chocolate and the famous Calissons. 

 

With Calissons by Gilles the rest of the world can experience a piece of Provence. Do not hesitate anymore and taste one! 

 

 

 

 

About The Author:

Gilles Cailleaux is the Owner & Master Confectioner at By Gilles, an online French candy store based in Orange County, California. They sell traditional French confections called Calissons from Provence. Gilles is always ready to share his 25 years plus experience of candy making and baking with everyone and want to hear about your experience with his calissons. Gilles and his team are sensitive about taste and harmony. They prepare your packages with special care and attention.


by Gilles
23416 Caminito Valle Laguna Hills Orange County, CA 92653 United States 800-334-2081 gilles@bygilles.com
by Gilles
23416 Caminito Valle Laguna Hills Orange County, CA 92653 United States
800-334-2081 gilles@bygilles.com